Australia ll - February 1 - March 6

February 1

Lots of days to catch up with - won't be easy. The last day in Christchurch marked by the walk to the central square with Heather and Toby, the dog, by saying bye to all the boarding house dwellers, and a drink at the airport with Kim and her son Clayton. Emirates Airline turned out to be one of the best airlines we ever traveled with. They pampered us continuously during the three hour flight to Melbourn, with superb food and drink. The computers at our seat had an incredible choice of movies /over a hundred/ and programs including views of everything that happens in front and beneath the plane. Kamila got a cute toy for a start and a framed polaroid picture of herself taken by a flight attendant dressed in an Arabic fashionable suit and hat. Good weather after the start made it possible to see mountains below us and have another great look on Mt. Cook .At the Melbourne airport we were picked up by Basia and Wojtek, a couple acquainted by Leszek when 'Stomil' visited the city during the bicentennial festivities in 1988. And that's where we are staying - at their exquisitely designed place in Fitzroy, a few steps from a groovy Brunswick street with innumerable alternative cafes, bars and boutiques. The first day we spent mainly in bed listening to rain and wind picking in strength every hour. During a walk in the neighbourhood the next day we saw the results - fallen trees on streets and parks and in the news reports about other her destructions. What a welcome. Now everything is back to normal - or rather to unseasonably cool weather, meaning around 20 plus, instead 30. The best temperature to roam the city. The plan was to stay put for a while, do some reading and algebra with Kamila. The conditions at Basia and Wojtek's place couldn't be better. However, Melbourne has a reputation of being one of the most livable cities, 'the place to be' as the local licence plates say and I wanted to find out why. B&W's place being centrally located made the city exploration very easy. And thus....

Feb. 2   6 pm

St. Paul's Cathedral - an Anglican church where we witness the opening and dedication of the processional doors. The ceremony includes a service, choir singing,, speeches, and a banquet. The stained glass door has been designed by a couple of Polish Melbournians - Janusz and Magdalena Kuzbicki, our hosts' close friends - hence the invitation. The ceremony will stay in our memory for a few reasons: the ominous wind wreaking havoc outside, honorable guests /the Polish ambassador among others/ and Kamila's bout of dizziness and faint during the final speech, caused probably by abnormal blood circulation after devouring a big chocolate bar on an empty stomach an hour earlier.

Feb. 3

Strolling through Fitzroy gardens to the city. Found Singapore Airlines and Thai Airlines offices to verify the dates of our next flights. Dymocks bookstore - bought a Rough Guide book about Bali and Lombok. Evening - dinner with our hosts and their next door neighbours.

Feb.4

Getting to know the city riding a free circular vintage tram.

Feb. 5

With Basia and Wojtek to the hustling and bustling Queen Victoria Market for a weekly supply of meat, fish, vegetables and fruit.

Drive around the metro to get good glimpse at the most important landmarks. At major intersections we watch Basia to follow the particular rule to accommodate trams. In order to turn right /against the traffic that is/ , you pull over as far as possible to the left /instead of the middle lane/, wait for the lights to change into amber and do the 'hook turn' then. The afternoon at Healeville Sanctuary: koalas, wombats, wallabies, kangaroos, emus, lyrebirds and many others including two peculiar egg-laying mammals: echidna and platypus. Wojtek walks with us and Basia is on a different errand. While waiting for us at the gate she sees Nicholas Cage and his girlfriend exiting the park. We are late by a couple of minutes. Kamila cannot be consoled - the animals lost their appeal in comparison.

Feb. 6

Melbourne Museum with interactive exhibits and stories from the city and excellent Aboriginal Center. Kamila agrees to spend two hours in the museum only on condition that we go to the movies after, to which I agree easily. Consequently, we go to see 'The Incredibles'.

Feb. 7

The Federation Square, a complex of new modern buildings, Melbournian's object of love or hate, houses various galleries and one of a kind Australian Center for the Moving Image. Following Basia's suggestion, I'm checking the neighbourhood. It's Monday - not the best night for going out even on Brunswick St., but i do find places still full of life. In the one closest to home I stay for a beer and good live music until midnight.

Feb. 8

Maria, B&W's daughter, an art history graduate gives us a tour of The National Gallery, specially the Diabolical and Fantastic in Art Exhibition, of which she's a curator.

A short visit to the State Library with a spacious reading room, and a magnificent dome, where is would love to spend a few days. But we have to rush because tonight we are cooking dinner - salmon with garlic and ginger, new potatoes, salad, and wine, bought earlier at the market. Besides B&W we invite Maria and Ronald the interior designer who works on B&W house. Cooked in frenzy, without much confidence on my part, with a big help from Kamila, the meal is appreciated and gladly consumed.

Feb. 9

To St.Kilda, a good-time suburb, recommended by guides, Leszek and our hosts. A lucious cake and smoothie/coffee on the main street, a stroll along the shore, ans a long rest under a palm. A rest? After what? Isn't easy life so tiring and stressful? More decadent pleasures at night at Victoria Market: a Spanish dish, Dutch Pancakes (see the pictures later), chocolate fondue and a camel ride for Kamila to top it off. Home about 10pm.

Feb. 10

At the Botanical Gardens my favourites are a Weeping Pine and Golden Deodar with huge cones. A walk along the south bank of Yarra River and back home to clean and pack while Kamila takes Vivi (B&W's dog) for a goodbye walk/run/chase the ball routine. Last dinner with Basia and Wojtek. We'll miss their good humoured company and amiable home always full of guests and good food.

Feb.11

Hurried goodbye - our alarm clock didn't work. Wojtek drives us to the Spencer Station to meet our Groovy Grape group for the Groovy Grape Getaway. There are two guides/drivers (Danielle & Clint) and 21 participants of typical nationalities: English, Dutch, German, Japanese, 1 Korean, 1 Spaniard, and 1 Finnish girl. During the first stop on the Great Ocean Road, Kamila counts 23 koalas on the gum trees around - disappointed she didn't beat the record of 33. The next stop - Twelve Apostles, limestone sculptures that line the shore. 9There are actually 14 Apostles.) After resisting for a moment, we succumb to the temptation of seeing the shore from the birds eye view and board a helicopter for a 9 min ride. I am so excited I don't know what to concentrate on - the experience of soaring itself, or the superb view of the pillars.

Feb.12

On the road by 7am. A group picture around a sign BEWARE OF GOLFERS HITTING OVER ROAD, someone added an 's' to HITTING making it another road attraction. At Martyrs Bay and London Bridge, other rock formations, we hear stories about numerous ship wrecks in this area. For lunch our dreadlocked aussie Clint 'chucks some snags on the barbie and takes out the ingredients for sangas' In Grampians National Park we hear an Aboriginal story about Tehinga the giant emus and the creation of mountains and rivers. Clint teaches Kamila how to play dijeridoo, and everyone gets a go at throwing a boomerang, while watching kangaroos crossing the clearing. Then to McKenzie Falls and Two Balconies which look out over the Grampians. At night we see some kangaroos across the road from our hostel

Feb. 13

Early hike in Grampians National Park to the Pinnacles lookout. Clint makes a second attempt of throwing Kamila off the pancake rock (after trying to throw her off the roof yesterday.)

In the early afternoon we cross the border into South Australia (with Clints enthusiastic cheers) the driest state in the world, set clocks half an hour back and have sangas for lunch at a local pub. Arrive in Adelaide about 6:30pm and are picked up by Kasia and Nina. We drive to their place and meet two little girls, and Janusz, Jacek's brother.

Feb. 14 - 20

So this time we enjoy the hospitality of Kasia and Janusz who let us use their garden house. We live in one of Adelaide's suburbs called Para Vista. The nearest bus stop is about 20 min walk and the city center about 30 min bus drive. We've been there several times already, also to Glenelg - another suburb, where an old tram takes you right on a beautiful huge beach. Besides the beach, our favourite so far has been a visit to Tandanya - National Aboriginal Culture Institute where we listened to didgeridoo played by a young Kaurna, who are original inhabitants of the Adelaide Plains. There were three cool interactive dioramas. Each had a screen big enough so the Aborigine is in a natural size. In one of them he teaches you how to light a fire with a stick and the stick is provided on the site. You listen to his instructions and encouragements until the fire is started - a light turns on. Another Aborigine tells you how to navigate a boat. With the starry sky illuminated above, you steer in turn on the stars he indicates until you reach home. And the third one invites you to watch a fish coming to the surface of a stream. Again you have to follow his instructions very carefully /we failed a few times before we saw the fish/ until the fish splashes you with water. This weekend I planned to go to the city by myself  - Kamila has a cold and agreed to stay home / the prospect of visiting more museums didn't give her extra energy/  but the bus drivers went on strike! I found out about it waiting at the bus stop wondering why the usually punctual bus was not showing up. Somebody finally mercifully enlightened me with the news. So instead I spent time reading a book, which Janusz happened to have on his shelf and which I had already started to read in a bookstore in Melbourne - "Burke's Soldier" by An Australian author Alan Attwood. /they have their own Atwood /. It's written from the perspective of the only survivor of the famous here expedition in 1860, led by Burke and Wills who traversed the continent from south to north. The main street in Melbourne is named after Burke. A good preparation for the trip we start on Tuesday - a 7 day tour to the Outback. We are going again with the Groovy Grapes. What we know about the trip is here:

http://www.groovygrape.com.au/desert.html

Our birthdays will be spent in really exciting places this year

Feb. 21

Booked a hostel in Alice Springs for two nights after the trip and a return flight by Virgin Blue. Considered a train, but decided against it - we /I/ can be too tired for that; besides we are running out of time - Barossa Valley with its famous wine is still waiting to be visited specially by me. Setting alarm clocks for 4:50.

Feb. 22

And we almost missed the bus to the city - with backpacks it takes more than 20 minutes and the bus was too punctual! Kamila ran ahead hailing to the driver who good heartedly stopped a little before the actual depot to let me catch up. We made it for 6:45 - the meeting time. Our guide- driver's name is Tash - a tough and multiskilled girl /as she turned out to be during the tour/ of 26. It is not a lucky day for her - after a few hours of drive we are pulled over by police and she is fined for not filling her log book properly and the car is 'canaried' - gets a yellow ticket on the windshield - 72 hours to tune up the engine as it emits too much smoke.

After a several lookout points on the way, we spend the night in Angorichina - a hostel in Flinders Ranges.

Feb. 23

At 6:30, a 40 min ride on rented bikes on a dirt road through the rocky area with lots of gum trees. Later we stop to visit an eccentric man living by himself in the middle of nowhere who carves in talcum powder pieces , hence his name Talc-Alf, tells stories related to each letter of the alphabet, has a washing machine powered by a bike, sells postcards with a new Australian flag : two horizontal stripes: black (symbolizing aborigines), red ( the colour of the earth) and a yellow (the sun ) in the middle - all these in place of the Union Jack in the upper left corner of the southern cross background. Later we see ochre quarries, some art work in the desert, salty lakes, a water hole where some get a relief from the heat - in the afternoon it is +44!!! Tash gives us some native plants to taste, catches a red-back spider and a bearded dragon lizard to show us up close, and continuously reminds us to drink water. After stopping at Leigh Creek (population of 30 most days) for gas we get to William Creek (population of 7) for the night. It's really onerous to roll out the swags in the sweltering heat - there is a reward though - cold beer in a pub! Yes there is a pub/store right on the campground. There are also showers with warm water in the cold water taps. At dinner, as at every meal, everybody chips in with cooking and washing up. Another reward - starry night over us and a little too bright moon lull us to sleep. /later Matthew shows us a picture he took at 2 am - a brown snake crawling among our swags!!!!!/

Feb. 24

A cool breeze in the middle of the night made everybody scramble inside their sleeping beds and at 5:30 the swags are rolled up and the destination for today is Coober Pedy. At times we drive along a dingo fence which runs for about 9000 km. Coober Pedy, means "white man's hole in the ground" because there are thousands of shafts where opal is being looked for. There are signs everywhere warning against walking backwards /while taking photos for example/.  70% of the population here live underground in dugout homes, previously mines; the richer the owner the better they are equipped. The only things missing are windows. Air conditioning is free - quite important in the area where the temperature can soar to +50. The lure of opal has brought people from all over. After unsuccessful attempt to find an opal on a heap indicated to us, Kamila and I go to 'noodle' for a sample in a shop run by Nick Le Souef. He cuts and polishes a white /nice but not valuable/ specimen for us, explains the intricacies of opal value, shows us his collection of the gems as well as of desert bugs, spiders, lizards, and  a snake.  Kamila buys me a little opal for my birthday. In the late afternoon we drive with the whole group to see a moon-like landscape - an area called Breakaways - the most arid place possible, an ancient white, yellow, orange and brown formation, a sea bed previously. Some trip-mates who, instead of trying to find opals, took naps in our underground hostel during the day /while the bus was being fixed/  go to the pub at night. Kamila and I are pretty exhausted and go to bed /the second and last real bed on the trip/ after dinner at John's Pizza. 

Feb. 25

Tash wakes us up playing a trumpet at 5. This is an early beginning to my longest birthday ever. Somewhere on the way we stop to watch the sunrise with the full moon on the other side of the road. Before noon we cross the border between South Australia and Northern Territory. The clocks go back one hour. Tash drives back and forth a few times on the official line so we can experience the relativity of time. Good topic for somebody musing about abundance of years on her records. Around 6 pm our swags are thrown out on the ground in Yuluru Resort - a name for the only campground in the area - and we are getting ready to go to see THE ROCK at sunset. Together with a crowd of other tourists /some arriving in comfy coaches with guides opening champaigne at the right time for them/ we watch Uluru Rock which never fails to impress with shape, enormity and colours changing every minute with the sun. The most memorable birthday ever.

Feb. 26.

Getting up at 4: 30 for the sunrise on The Ayers Rock and then: walk in the Valley of the Winds Kata Tjuta - Olgas - another massive rock formation in the area

sunset on Uluru from a different point - more distant, Olgas visible as well

Feb. 27

Kamila becomes a teenager!!! Will I survive this? Watching another sunrise on Uluru /different place again/  while Tash cooks pancakes on the grill by the bus. Almost like home - the only days I cook pancakes are special occasions like birthdays. As usual geared with fly nets we start an eight km walk around Uluru. It's very hot but the views of different sides and finding spots connected to the aboriginal 'dreaming' stories are worth the effort. At lunch Kamila is taken away from the camp while everybody else is preparing balloons and banners. She is brought blindfolded, bumped on a big towel 13 times and cheered with the birthday song. The wax numbers bought for the cake have been eaten by birds before, but there are sparkles on the cake instead. After four hour drive we prepare the next camp at King's Canyon.

Feb. 28

We are told to take three liters of water each on the walk at King's Canyon. We rise again at ungodly hour of 4 am to avoid the heat of +41 which is predicted for today. The hikes go through another moonscape made of sheer red sandstone rock looking at times like ruins of an ancient city. On the way to Alice Springs later we see camels and a few little twisters. Tash takes a shortcut - a two hour stretch of a dirt road - we are completely covered with dust at the end of it. An air-conditioned room awaits us in Ossie backpackers where we take long showers and meet others for dinner at Tobby's.

March 1

Washing, cleaning, resting and one short visit to the center of Alice Springs. Just behind our window we have the hostel's pet - Matylda, a kangaroo which has lived here for 6 years since it was orphaned and found ailing.

March 2

Back in Adelaide after one and a half hour flight. Before coming 'home' in Para Vista we treat ourselves with birthday dinner in the city.

March 3

Errands errands. Tomorrow a trip to Barossa Valey.

March 4

We visited four wineries out of dozens in this rich, established initially by German settlers area: Jacobs Creek, Bethany, Richmond Grove, and Schild Estate. At each we listen to a brief history of the place and about the intricacies of producing wine while being served samples - from sparkling whites, whites, rose, different reds and ports. What can I say - at the end of the day I feel very ripe and full-bodied. Kamila has her share of pleasures, too. In a toy factory where we stop she buys herself a cuddly wombat and a kangaroo. She names the first Riesling, the second Shiraz.

March 5

Last full day in Australia.

Washing and packing all our belongings to backpacks - always a challenge. Writing postcards, loading pictures on cd - with Janusz help.

March 6

Good bye to Kasia and Janusz, their two pretty little daughters and the grandmothers, Nina and Jola. Janusz takes us to the airport. Another favour on top of the previous ones including catching and getting rid of a giant spider - huntsman in our room as well as finding the source of a very bad smell one day - a dead rat and spending his evening to clear the space of its remainings; and the usual ones - giving us an access to his computer and helping send pictures to Leszek.

Our flight to Singapore took about 7 hours. Singapore Airlines took care of us very well, but didn't beat the Emirates with anything. At the Changi Airport we meet Lipteck, Shih-ling's fiance /we lived with Shih-ling  in Sydney/ who took us for dinner and a walk around the city. The night we spent at YMCA. It was a great night. Thank you Liptick! We would love to come here for your wedding!

jmj